a simple task. Replacing a one gang (i.e. single) switch takes
around ten minutes providing there are no wiring issues and the
fixing screws fit and don't have stripped threads! A two gang
or three gang will take a little longer as there are more wires
to deal with. Replacing a switch with a dimmer is also a simple
Ceiling mounted pull switches can similarly be replaced (ceiling
dimmers are also available) but typically take a little longer
to replace than a wall switch as steps are required and cables
can be set back in ceilings.
(or rose as standard fittings are commonly
known) can be a simple task but in most cases at least three cables
(each with three wires) will be found. The reason for this surprisingly
large amount of cabling is that the ceiling rose is often used
as a junction box. So replacing it means being able to identify
what each cable is and ensuring they go back in the right order.
This is fine if a the rose is being replaced but if a 'feature
light' is being fitted and the ceiling rose being removed then
in addition to the installation of the new light fitting the junction
box function of the rose has to be replicated using a connection
block in the ceiling. Remember bathroom lights must be suitable
for the zone in which they are fitted.
to be repaired is a 'PIR' fitting (i.e. a day/light
and movement sensor with a flood light) or a 'bulkhead' fitting
then it's frequently cheaper to replace the fitting. If replacing
a 150W to 500W flood light consideration may be given to installing
a low energy version. Although they cost more to buy they are
cheaper to run. If you have a replacement light ready then that
will save time. If the light is in a position that's difficult
to access then the job will take longer.
the principle consideration is where
power can be obtained from. If the location is really difficult
to get power to consideration could be given to solar powered
lights. These are fine if light is only required for short periods
of time and it doesn't need to be too intensive. For 'mains' powered
lights then a power source needs to be found. This can be a lighting
circuit via a switch or a ring main via a fused spur. A cable
then needs to be run to the light. The ease or difficulty of the
cable run dictates the cost.
is usually a relatively straight forward task assuming
the loft isn't boarded. This is because the power for the light
can usually be obtained from a ceiling rose of a room below the
loft. If the loft is boarded allow additional time to access a
suitable source of power.
usually requires an estimate. This is because (i) it is
necessary to look at how they can can be fitted. Often it is necessary
to access the space above the ceiling the down lights are going
in but this can depend on quantity and rafter layout and (ii)
where the lighting circuit can be accessed needs to be considered.
The same applies to:
which can be similarly complex with the additional tasks
of needing to route cables down the wall and if required switch
the circuit separately from overhead lights. Installing wall lights
is best undertaken whilst a refurbishment or compete redecoration
of a room is being undertaken. An alternative is to condsider
uplighters powered from sockets.
The first question is what type? Down lights can be mains
or low voltage. If there is a faulty mains down light then usually
either the bulb has gone or the fitting has given up in which
case replacement is required. Low voltage down lights are transformer
powered and it is common for these to 'die' in which case they
need replacement. Hopefully the installer left them accessible.
If so it's a case of investigating to see if the transformer is
powering one or more down lights, obtaining a similarly rated
replacement and fitting it.